Apparatus for stitching welt shoes



Get. 28, 1941. J. J. GOE L LNER' APPARATUS FOR STITCHING WELT SHOES Filed Feb. 1, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR JOSEPH J. GOELLNER Y AITT gEY 0m 28, 1941. J. J. GOELLNER 292609664 APPARATUS FOR STITCHING WELT SHOES 4 Filed Feb. 1, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR JOSEPH J GOELLNER Patentgd ct. 28,1941

UNITED STATES PATENT-OFFICE 'The invention relates to the sewing of shoe soles and uppers together, and more particular- 1y to the sewing of shoes in whichithe upper is turned outwardly towards the edge of *the sole and a welt .strip overlies the out-turned edge of Such shoes may be termed stitch.

the upper. down shoes.

Heretofore the operator, when completing a Figure 9 is a detail vertical section taken on the line 3-9, of Figure 6.

The frame I of the machine head mounts brackets 2 in which is journalled the main cam stitching operation, released thepresser foot and l removed the shoe from the machine, at the same time also drawing out a length of thread and a length of the welt strip. He then turned the shoe over, picked up a hand knife andcut the welt strip at the end of the stitching, and then pulled the welt strip supply back so as to retract the cut end of the strip. to the needle before beginning another stitching operation.

The object of the present invention is to facilitate the severing of the welt strip at the end of 'a stitching operation. With the present invention, the manual release of the presser foot also actuates a clamp for the welt strip. Some types of welts may then be severed by a pull or jerk on the shoe, but, if preferred, the mechanism may include a knife to'sever the welt strip at the needle before the shoe is removed from the machine. Such a severing eliminates waste of the welt strip and avoids the handling of a loose tool for cutting the welt strip and avoids the manual retracting of the drawnout portion of the welt back to the needle and any adjustment of its end which may be required.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating a selected embodiment of the invention Figure 1 is a side view of the essential portions of a shoe stitcher and shows a shoe being stitched.

Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same parts.- Figure 3 is a top view of the welt gripping device shown in Figure 2.

\ Figure 4 is a vertical longitudinal section shaft 3 carrying the cams 4 and 5 by which the needle and awl segments 1 and 8 respectively are actuated. The needle plate or work support 9- projects from the frame. The presser. foot 6 may be released manually by a'pull rod I ll connected to a foot treadle (not shown). All of the above parts are of the usual construction, except as to detail arrangement described below, and in themselves donot constitute the present invention.

A bracket II is secured to the machine head at the right hand side of the frame. A clamping jaw I2 is pivoted at l3 to bracket ll and cooper- Figure 5 is a vertical transverse section of the device taken on the line 55 of Figure 4.

Figure6 is a detail elevation of the work support, presser foot, knife bracket andits operating lever looking at the same from the right hand side of the machine; 1. e., opposite from the direction of the view of Figure 1, and showing the parts drawn to an enlarged scale.

Figure 7 is a top view of the parts shown in Figure 6.

Figure 8 is a front elevation of the work support or needle plate and the welt severing knife.

through the clamp and through a slot l5 (Fig. 8) in needle plate 9. Normally springs l6 thrust elements l2 and I I apart, as shown in Figure 4."

A screw l1 threaded through jaw 12 has its lower end disposed to seat on bracket H and limit the anticlockwise movement of jaw I2. The outer end of jaw I2 is connected by a yielding linkage l8 to the presser foot release rod l0 whereby depression of the presser foot treadle to release the presser foot is accompanied by clamping of the welt strip between elements I2 and I4. When the welt strip is so clamped a jerk. or even a strong tug on the welt strip, as may be provided by pulling the shoe S from the machine, will tend to sever the welt strip at the needle plate where the welt strip has been piercedby I pend upon its thickness and material. If the welt strip is thin or of relatively weak material, such as fiber or composition, the parts described will beample for the intended purpose, but it may be preferred to provide a knife 20 (Figs. 6, 7 and 8) for cutting the welt strip if it is of tougher material, such as leather, or if it is too thick to be readily severed by a pull on the shoe. Knife 20 is on an arm 2| carried by a bracket 22. The arm is positioned behind work support 9 and the knife extends forwardly to slide over the top of the work support and preferably is received in a groove 21 in the top of the work support. A shoe edge gauge bracket 22 is slidable forwardly and rearwardly by a crank shaft 23 It is obvious that the" details of the structure'- may be varied in numerous ways without departing from the spirit of the invention and the exclusive use of such modifications of the described invention as come within the scope of the claims is contemplated.

Iclaim: 1. In a stitcher arranged for sewing a shoe upper, Welt strip and sole andhaving a presser.

foot and mechanism for releasing the presser foot at the end of a stitching operation, a welt clamp, and a connection between said mechanism and said clamp for operatingthe latter.

2. In a shoe stitcher, a work support,-,a cooperating presser foot, a device arranged to receive a Welt strip in its passage to the Work support during the normal operation of the machine, said device including a clamp for the welt strip, a manually operable member for releasing said presser foot and a yielding connection be-.

tween said device and member for actuating said clamp by operation of said member.

3. In a shoe stitcher including a needle and work support, a knife operable at will by the operator to sever a welt strip adjacent to said needle, and a device operable at will by the operator and independently of the knife to clamp the welt strip against movement to facilitate severance of the strip by the knife.

4. In a shoe stitcher including a needle, a work support adjacent to said needle and apertured to provide for passage therethrough of said needle and a welt strip, a device spaced from said work support and operable at will by the operator to clamp the welt strip against movement, and a knife movable at will by the operator across said emerges from said support.

5. A device for use on a shoe stitcher having a work support and a needle passing therethrough, comprising a bracket for attachment to the stitcher frame, a member pivoted to said bracket and spaced substantially from said work support, and manually operable means for moving said member toward said bracket to clamp a welt strip between them without severing the welt strip.

6. In a stitcher arrangedfor sewing a shoe upper, welt strip and sole, a stitcher head, a work support thereon having an aperture for a needle andan; adjacent aperture for the welt strip, a knife movable over said work support to sever the weltm'trip, andf'afdevice for actuating said knife including fa shoe edge gauge bracket supporting the knife and 'slidably mounted on said stitcher headand a,lever. pivotally mounted on the front of said stitcher'head and having one end connected to said bracket.

'7. In a shoe stitcherhaving aneedle and a stationary work supportplate provided, with an aperture through which said needle, may pass and provided with an adjacent; aperture through whicha Welt stripmay be pass'ed'as itgtravels towards the work, a presser footfor clamping the work, including a'welt strip, against'saidsupport plate, a device spaced from said support plate and operable manually at will to clamp thewelt strip before it reaches said support plate so that the welt strip is held against movement through the aperture therefor in the support plate whereby the strip may be severed adjacentto the needle by pulling or jerking the strip against the edge of the aperture therefor in the support plate.

8. A device for useon a shoe stitcher having a frame and a work table and apresser foot and a needle associated therewith .andfa foot treadle operated-rod for releasing the presser footwhen the rod is depressed, the, device comprising a bracket for attachment to the stitcherfr'ame, a member movable on. said bracket, said bracket and member including opposing jaws, and means for connecting saidmember'to the stitcher control foot treadle rod to move said jaws towards each other when the treadle rod is depressed, said jaws being arranged to receive a welt strip between them on its way to'the work table and to clamp the welt stripagainst movement when the foot treadle rod is-depressed.

JOSEPH J. GOELLNER. 

